LFW Autumn 2013: few and far between

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What can I say about London fashion week? If I should say anything at all, really… It was a disappointment and felt more like a hyperactive pit stop between New York and Milan, not a proper landing in one of the fashion capitals. I was excited to see my favourites (no names this time, for obvious reasons), but some just didn’t deliver and left me feeling not just confused but fooled and I didn’t like that. At all.

It wasn’t about a woman who wears but men who design. And all I can say to those men is that it doesn’t matter how handsome you are, how many A-listers you have in a front row, or how many times you send Cara walk down the runway – if you get it wrong, you get it wrong, and everyone, even those who don’t say it out loud, will remember it until you get it right again.

Somehow I was left with an impression I usually get after watching X-Factor/American Idol editions. A kid who can’t sing is often the one who is told by his family and friends (or Central St Martins professor for that matter) how “awesome and talented” he or she is and how mean the judges are. In reality, the truth may hurt but it’s best to experience the pain in a company of your close friends than get out there in front of the millions.

Here are my favourites, though. Sculptural and feminine Antonio Berardi designs, exquisite Christopher Kane feather dress, soft vinyl-inspired geometry at David Koma, fairy tale Fairy-worthy coats and silk dresses covered in mesmerising prints and embroidery at Kinder Aggugini, flared and pleated Matthew Williamson’s romantic designs and pure and elegant Mulberry, Pringle and Temperley looks.

Happy browsing.

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Antonio Berardi

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Christopher Kane

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David Koma

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Kinder Auggugini

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Matthew Williamson

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Mulberry

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Pringle of Scotland

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Temperley London

 

Photo sources: mulberry FB page, wwd.com, fashionising.com

Emperor’s new clothes or am I going mad?

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This blog was created to talk about all things beautiful, fashions that inspire and stories that preserve the past and the present. However once in a while I make an exception because I need to share the other kind of thoughts, get them out of my head, straight into the web-space that I made my own.

Over the last few months every time I saw another Dior fashion show and read a review that followed I felt like that little boy in the Andersen’s tale who seemed to be the only one seeing no real clothes. I saw so many flash backs and similarities in what Simons is currently presenting as his innovative designs that it hurt my eyes and made my heart cry for help, hope, anything... My mind was also struggling whenever I saw another interview or story praising “the new Era of Dior” and the houses new designer.

And the questions kept popping up in my head…

Look at the images below, look at the seasons they come from. If this is the future of Dior then why so many looks resemble Dior and even Jil Sander collections from the past? Is Simons even capable of designing for such a unique and historically important fashion house like Dior? Does he even have the gift of visualising fashion and making it evolve while preserving the legacy, not blindly copying some of the past designs? Or is his own imaginary world is, in fact, empty, just like that Emperor’s closet? And what is the real reason for the Dior bosses to keep the Maisons designer?

I know everyone deserves a second chance and creating one’s very first collection is always a challenge, but Simons had three attempts already and yet failed to impress and inspire. The feelings of emptiness and disappointment that come after each show have such a strong and bitter aftertaste that I no longer plan to think of Dior as one of the houses that’s worth talking about or falling in love with. It’s sad, but it’s true.

In his interview that followed the couture show the designer said that with his latest collection he was hoping to “re-connect with the company's long-timers” (as if he can’t forget the effect Slimane’s collection had on the YSL audience – something he is yet to achieve). I am afraid if he continues the way he does, not only the old school will be gone forever, but the younger generation will also join them. I booked my one-way ticket already. You?

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Dior CTR S/S 2013 (S = Simons) - Dior RTW F/W 2012 (S) - Jil Sander RTW S/S 2011 (S) - Jil Sander RTW F/W 2007 (S)

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Dior Couture F/W 2012 (S) - Jil Sander RTW F/W 2012 (S)

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Dior CTR S/S 2013 (S) – Jil Sander RTW F/W 2009 (S)

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Dior CTR S/S 2013 (S) – Dior RTW F/W 2012 (S) – Dior CTR F/W 2012 (S) – Jil Sander RTW F/W 2007 (S)

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Dior CTR S/S 2013 (S) – Dior CTR S/S 2008 (G = Galliano)

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The yellow fabric overstock from the times at Jil Sander, no?

Dior CTR S/S 2013 (S) – Dior RTW F/W 2012 (S) – Dior CTR F/W 2012 (S) – Jil Sander RTW S/S 2007 (S)

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Dior RTW S/S 2012 (S) – Dior RTW S/S 2010 (G)

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Dior RTW S/S 2013 (S) – Dior CTR S/S 2005 (G) – Jil Sander RTW S/S 2011 (S)

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Dior CTR F/W 2012 (S) – Dior RTW F/W 2005 (G)

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Sparkling lips: Dior CTR S/S 2013 – Kinder Aggugini RTW F/W 2012

These are just a few examples – I’ll let you be the judge.

Photo source: Numero China November 2010 (the dress is Dior RTW F/W/ 2010), style.com

Kinder Aggugini–an exclusive interview

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A brilliant and very unique Italian-born London-based designer, Kinder Aggugini studied at Saint Martins, worked with John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Donatella Versace as well as Costume National, Calvin Klein and Paul Smith.

Until his debut in February 2009, he was fashion editors’ best kept secret. The orders for redingotes, Chanel-inspired tweed jackets (Kinder once referred to his work as an unholy marriage of Coco Chanel and Sid Vicious), silk dresses and evening pea coats were placed privately and admired by the selected few.

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Autumn / Winter 2008

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Spring / Summer 2009

And then he came out bringing mix of romantic prints and structured garments to the London Fashion Week giving it an absolutely new and fresh dimension.

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Spring / Summer 2011

His mind, just like a beautiful kaleidoscope made of rainbow pieces, creates dreams of a wearable kind. His collections, influenced by memories from his punk rock past and Italian heritage, love of books, music and art and his deep knowledge of fabrics  and techniques, are for those women who love ageless style, impeccable quality, have a sense of humour and enjoy of being a little bit unpredictable.

It was a very bold move for me to ask Kinder for an interview – he agreed (and made me feel incredible). Having his answers is like receiving a precious gift and I cannot thank him enough for sharing his time and thoughts with me.

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Autumn / Winter 2012

When did fashion become a part of your life?

As far as I can remember I was always obsessed with fashion. In my teens I learned to make my own clothes and experimented with a number of looks. When my peers started asking to have what I was wearing I decided to figure how to do this forever.

Who has been the greatest influence on your career?

The Designers I worked for. I chose them because I found them inspiring and ultimately they shaped the way I design today.

What was working with Donatella like?

I had a great time. She’s one of the most generous kind and funny people I know. When I met her she said I didn’t formally train as a designer but I worked for 25 years with one of the best in the world, I must have learned something”. She was absolutely right.

What was the best lesson you’ve learned from working with Galliano?

I learned that cutting on the bias is not a standard rule, it can be done in multiple ways and each can have a distinctively different effect.

What do you think of first thing in the morning?

Since I started my own collection I always wake up with a mixture of concerns for all the things I haven’t done and the excitement for all I’m about to do.

What is the most fascinating thing about creating a collection?

It’s such a thrill to bring something into existence. From a simple thought to a three-dimensional object it truly gives me the greatest pleasure.

Do you still design with the music in your head playing like a sound track?

Always! I find music extremely stimulating. In the absence of anything playing in the room my head switches on.

You do come across as a music connoisseur – what are your favourite bands /artists?

Really hard to narrow it down I have such a varied love of music. This morning I thought of Bach - Double Violin Concerto in D Minor and a moment ago I had Skrillex – Breakn’a Sweat ringing in my head. I think my brain also functions as an iPod.

What are the top 3 things on your “Million things to-do list” right now?

Research. Fabric Selection. Accounts.

What is your fashion philosophy?

Bold fabrics in chic shapes. Bold shapes in chic fabrics. Always have a look.

***

5 things about Kinder:

Favourite dessert: Eaton Mess.

Best way to relax: Meditate or videogames.

If you could be anywhere right now, where would you find yourself? Walking on Zabriskie Point.

Books or magazines? Books.

One of your guilty pleasures: I love Disco.

 

Photo source: Chris Brooks for Telegraph, aggugini.com, style.com