Trends 2013: spring crops

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This spring the skirts are getting longer and longer while the trousers seem to be doing exactly the opposite. The exposed ankle was seen on many runways this season making cropped trousers the Trend hero of Spring/Summer 2013.

They may be desirable and a must-have, but the crops should definitely come with a caution on the label because some can be unforgiving, emphasising on what we’d rather hide and making 98% of us look shorter.

The good news is that we are no longer limited to cigarette style trousers a la Parisienne (the look I personally adore the most), but any shape imaginable, so it’s easy to find the perfect pair.

Go for higher waisted versions in order to lengthen the legs, wide and boy’ish to create a straight line and visually change the silhouette, or boot-cut without side pockets – to balance the wider hips. Be careful with tapered trousers and remember to wear heels, the fashion’s simplest trick to longer-looking pins.

Here I will be sticking with my trusted long-term friends – Patrizia Pepe wide straight black and white Gingham pair that may be a hundred years old, but is just lovely (and very much loved) and recently bought Whistles tailored black cigarettes for colder days.

What about you?

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Alberta Ferretti. Cacharel, Phillip Lim, Philosophy Spring/Summer 2013

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Chanel, Diane von Furstenberg, Rachel Zoe, Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2013

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Paola Frani, Daks, Etro, Fendi Spring/Summer 2013

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Tracey Reese, 1A Classe Alviero Martini, Tibi, Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013

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Vanessa Bruno, Carven, Saint Laurent, Chloe Spring/Summer 2013

 

Photo source: Vogue US May 2011, elle.com

Saint Laurent campaign by Hedi Slimane

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I must admit, I am enjoying the reign of Hedi Slimane as a driving force of Maison Saint Laurent. I really, really do. His first collection left me overflowing with emotions and almost brought me to tears (of joy, of course, for beauty often has this effect on the sensitive fibres of my soul).

His latest campaign (as he shot a separate one for the website) made me stare at the photos of Kati Nescher thinking of how beautiful her eyes were, how fragile yet strong she looked on every picture and how well Slimane captured the spirit of Yves.

With all the madness and changes that have been happening in the fashion industry in 2012 I seem to have found my happy place, in a dream world of Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. And I am grateful to him for that.

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Photo source: ysl.com

That very special Vogue 1999 editorial

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I trust you enjoyed yesterday’s treat video. I certainly did. Being true to myself I then went through my files to find the couture editorial mentioned in the story. I had to – it was too beautiful not to publish. That photo of Kate in dreamy white Chanel Haute Couture gown that made her look like an Angel has always been a favourite of mine, while the black and white portrait featuring beautiful head piece / earrings created by Galliano for Dior Couture make me think of a very similar piece designed by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Spring/Summer 2012 Haute Couture collection (and then used in Dalhia Noir campaign). But enough talking – enjoy the photos.

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Photo source: Vogue US October 1999

Paris fashion week impressions

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The last week of the fashion season was overwhelming in many ways. There were beautiful clothes. There was a generous amount of gossip that stained my otherwise exciting and sparkling idea of a beautiful week. And there were a couple of disappointments and a few surprises, too.

It was very difficult to pick a few favourites this time – it feels unfair not to mention certain designers in fear of running out of blog space. I am condensing it to the bare minimum of words and photos in hope to preserve the essence and memories of this special time without making you fall asleep right here, on your keyboard…

My absolute favourites (in alphabetical order) included…

…the dreamy, romantic, floaty, origami pleated, cool blue and delicately printed Cacharel.

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…excessive in quantities and pearls, feminine, sweet and beautifully embroidered Chanel.

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…very French (or better yet, Parisian), light as air, garnished with most gorgeous floral applique and beautifully accessorised Chloe.

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…the sober and elegant day wear and out of this world sparkling gowns at Elie Saab.

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… sunny, adorable, 1960s-inspired Louis Vuitton.

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… beautiful, minimalistic in a way, until you see the finishing touches of elaborate embroidery or sequins sparkling in the dark, unfolding into a fantasy, Valentino collection. The simple silhouettes and stunning details made those clothes absolutely timeless.

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…Vanessa Bruno for its Parisian feel, colours, carefree attitude, mix of floating silks with structured leather jackets and wish-list worthy footwear.

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And talking of ultimate spoilers…

First of all, Christian Dior show. I was looking forward to it. I was very excited and my heart wanted to be in love (and so did my mind, if I am honest). I didn’t get the collection. It confused me. It made me think of the previous Haute Couture show, table cloth, badly fitted footwear and, ironically, the smoking jacket (yes, the Yves Saint Laurent smoking jacket).

I know Raf is a lovely man and I know everyone loves him. I totally understand the enthusiasm that comes with the new era of Christian Dior.

I just don’t like the clothes.

The second bad memory formed after John Galliano show designed by Bill Gaytten. It was sad, bizzare and messy, although the music was good. It felt like a funeral. I am trying really hard to brush off the feeling, but so far failing miserably.

And then there was also Yves Saint Lauren by Hedi Slimane. Or should I refer to it as Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane? Or Saint Laurent? Apparently there is a huge difference now and one is supposed to use a certain names when referring to specific topics.

The collection itself was wonderful, fantastic, in fact, because it made me think of Yves and his aesthetics and signature pieces (the smoking, the blouse and bows, pea jacket, jumpsuit and Saharienne). It made me think of all things bohemian. It reminded me of the Opium years (as a perfume, not the other thing). I loved the jewellery and the shoes – I imagine those statement pendant necklaces being used a lot in editorials comes spring and becoming another must-have item.

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What I didn’t like was the gossip that followed. All that open letter nonsense. It became too personal and too bitter. It spoilt the overall impression.

And that is it. The Paris Fashion Week. It’s over now and so is my post. Thank you for reading.

Photo source: vogue.com, style.com