Timeless chic: Calvin Klein Spring 2003

Spring 2003 collection was pure, sensual, ethereal and breathtaking. The fluidity of it, the combination of softly glowing silk, powdery suede and creamy leathers, the semi-transparency were not just beautiful – they were simply timeless and without a doubt worthy of a separate post seamlessly fitting into my Timeless Chic series.

It was the very last collection Calvin Klein designed for the brand before the company was sold to Phillips-Van Heusen for $400 million  with additional $30 million in shares and future revenue royalties for both Klein and Schwartz. Francisco Costa became the new creative director while Klein assumed a consulting role.

Natalia Vodianova who opened the show and appeared in the Spring/Summer 2003 campaign became the highest ever paid face of the brand.

  Photo source: stylebistro.com, Natalia Vodianova photographed by Mario Sorrenti for Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2003 campaign  

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Calvin Klein perfumes

The only reason the very first Calvin Klein perfume took a year to be born was the fact that it had to be perfect and different from everything Klein ever smelled before. In fact, the designer disliked any form of perfume or cologne. He never used one himself and strongly associated any other fragrance with his school teachers and mother’s friends. He liked musk and imagined his future creation with a code name “Seventh Avenue” as “something floral but not heavy… that doesn’t hang like a cloud over a woman…”, but any further attempts to find the right formula mixed for him by the best noses of International Flavours & Fragrance (IF&F) lead to nothing – Calvin rejected every single concoction including a completely unique smell that everyone fell in love with. The latest creation was then offered to Ralph Lauren who introduced it as his first fragrance that very same year, while Klein and his team had to start everything from scratch.

It all finally happened when Calvin received a custom-made perfume brought for him from Paris by Frances Stein, a former Vogue editor who, after leaving the magazine, spent several years working for Klein. The romantic notes of jasmine and roses seduced him instantly and the bottle was sent to IF&F to be analysed and reproduced.

It turned out to contain the most expensive oils in the world, which meant that the cost of production and retail price would be much higher compared to any other perfume sold at the time, but for Klein achieving perfection was worth breaking the rules.

He soon went against the crowd yet again refusing to buy cheaper stock cases and bottles. Instead, the smooth, “crying out to be touched”, oval-shaped crystal bottles were manufactured in France to guarantee the best clarity of the glass and perfectly fitted stopped.

The beautiful vial containing most precious gold liquid was then photographed by the one and only Irving Penn who was charmed by the sensual geometry of the bottle.

The job was done.

On 6 March 1978 Calvin Klein Ltd. launched their very first perfume called “Calvin Klein”. Sadly, it wasn’t as successful as Klein hoped and begged to be replaced with something more sensual, more day to night, more… unisex.

Obsession, the new oriental and spicy fragrance, a combination of mandarin, bergamot and subtle notes of jasmine, rose and neroli mixed with coriander, taget, armoise, amber and oak moss created by Rourge-Bertram DuPont and poured into blonde tortoiseshell, tantric sculptures and Indian prayer stones -inspired bottle was launched into production in 1985.

Accompanied by a provocative campaign directed by Richard Avedon and filmed by Nestor Almendros with the print ads shot by Bruce Weber, featuring Jose Borain (who was replaced by “kinder and gentle” Kate Moss in 1990s), the new fragrance was absolutely irresistible and made $30 million in whole sales in its first year.

It was followed by Eternity (the name was inspired by the eternity ring presented by Klein to his second wife, Kelly), a blend of freesia, white lily, muguet, narcissus and sandalwood. The serene black and white campaign was focused on fantasy and family and photographed by Richard Avedon.

CK be came in 1996. Contradiction – in 1997. Truth – 2000. Crave and Truth for men – 2002. Each became a bit of an icon, a signature of its time and a scented memory for many.

 

Photo source: Kate Moss photographed by Mario Sorrenti for Obsession campaign 1992, Calvin Klein Classic perfume campaign photographed by Irving Penn 1978, Obsession campaign photographed by Richard Avedon 1985, Eternity campaign photographed by Richard Avedon, fragrantica.com, calvinklein.com

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Equestrian fashion

Let the title play a sweet trick with your mind. Feel free to jump between the lines. Today we are not going to talk about a trend that seems to never go out of fashion, the Balenciaga hats circa 2006, Givenchy feline hybrids from 2011, Ralph Lauren jackets or Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2012 campaign. We won’t even discuss the comfort of Dubarry boots favoured among those country, horse and hound loving folks who have to get out there whatever the weather.

A bit of trivia about those boots before I continue. Since the company is based in Ireland, I thought that the brand name would be of an Irish origin, too. After all, it sounds Irish. Surprisingly, “Dubarry” came from Madame du Barry, a famous French courtesan – a decision made to differentiate the company from other Irish brands and make it sound more European. Not sure if the European strategy worked, but the blend if history and fashion did indeed make me smile.

But enough about that – I realise some of you might be nodding off by now…

The whole idea for this post was inspired by my ode to poodles. I adore creature-focused posts very much and always wanted to continue the series, but somehow it took me a while.

I chose horses. They are my unicorns – beautiful, mysterious, graceful and absolutely fascinating. I was obsessed with them as a child, but never really got a chance to meet a horse “in person” and touch it until I moved countries.

English country side and horses are inseparable. You see these stunning animals wandering in the fog covered fields, protected from the chill and rain by cosy turnout rugs, and then, as soon as the first rays of sunshine laser-cut the clouds – happily galloping through the woods leaving a haze of powdery dust behind, like a memory of a miracle that you just happened to witness.

Photo source: Vogue Germany February 2011, Amica August 2012, Vogue Paris November 2005, Vogue Paris May 2013, Grazia Italia 2011, Vogue UK June 2004, Vogue US October 2004, Vogue US September 2003, Chanel campaign F/W 2009, Vogue US September 2005, Elle Russia July 2011, W May 2002, Harper’s Bazaar US August 2010, Qvest 2010, C Magazine Spring 2012 via FGR, Vogue US May 1994, Vogue US April 2010, Grazia Italia September 2011 via FGR, Marie Claire Germany 2002, Harper’s Bazaar UK August 2012, Vogue Italia March 2008, Allure US August 1999, Vogue Japan May 2013

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Kate Moss in Vogue Italia 2006

I am starting this week with a story shot by Mario Sorrenti for the March issue of Vogue Italia. For me this editorial isn’t so much about the model, but the clothes and the light that make me stare and absorb every single detail, almost feel it physically – the rocky little grains of pearls, the frost of lace, the feathery light haze of silk – all blending into the warm glow of velvet skin, creating a sensual dream, a fashion shadow play…

Photo source: Vogue Italia March 2006

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Natalia Vodianova in Vogue Paris 2002

Comme par enchantement is a mysterious shadow play when the clothes dissolve into enchanting silhouettes creating a powerful blend of sensuality and beauty.

As it often happens on Mondays, here is yet another editorial featuring Natalia Vodianova photographed by Mario Sorrenti  for the August 2002 issue of Vogue Paris.

Photo source: Vogue Paris August 2002

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