When we think of Oscar de la Renta, we picture gorgeous clothes, elegant gowns, stunning shoes, sparkling jewellery, scarves and sunglasses.... And yet it's not often that we associate the name with handbags, which are, as it turns out, just beautiful...
Take the mini Madison handcrafted with textured calfskin, lined in soft rose suede and bejellewed with pink quartz and sodalite.
Isn't she a darling?
Available at oscardelarenta.com
You know, apart from one dress covered in strawberries so tiny that they can only be recognised up-close, I don’t own or wear anything floral. I thought about it once or twice, but dismissed at the end.
And yet I adore wearing flowers. I always did. Years ago it was a floral wreath made with delicate wild flowers on a daily basis and worn proudly as if it was a crown. As soon as the first blooms appeared we would be off to the nearest park to gather dandelions and plants of unknown origin to braid them into beautiful and naive headbands, hands covered in brown spots from the dandelion milky juice, not that we ever cared… In summer our original monochromatic choice would transform into a rainbow with blue cornflowers, white daisies, yellow marigolds and pink cosmos, all so fragrant, intoxicating and, for any kid who read Andersen’s Thumbelina, mesmerising beyond belief.
As a grown-up, I still wear my petals, mostly as jewellery or shoes, not so secretly dream of the most beautiful Valentino bag and, of course, dresses and blouses.
I think my love for this type of clothes began with the stunning Dolce&Gabbana gowns from their Spring 2009 collection and was later fuelled by Valentino designs that I saw last year and an antique hat covered in teeny blossoms, each secured with a glass bead – I almost bought it, just to look at, but having marinated the idea overnight, decided to be sensible and… hat-less.
Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2009
So here I am, fascinated with the clothes that feel like a step into a dream and becoming a part of it. There isn’t any other way to explain it – it’s purely about spring, new beginnings, beauty and love. And memories that I can touch, I guess.
Alexis Mabille | Oscar de la Renta | Bottega Veneta | Giambattista Valli | Agnes B | Blugirl Blumarine | Alexander McQueen | Chloe | Badgley & Mischka Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2013
Photo sources: Elle US March 2013 (image has been altered, please refer to the blog if using), Marie Claire France March 2013, style.com, elle.com
This spring the skirts are getting longer and longer while the trousers seem to be doing exactly the opposite. The exposed ankle was seen on many runways this season making cropped trousers the Trend hero of Spring/Summer 2013.
They may be desirable and a must-have, but the crops should definitely come with a caution on the label because some can be unforgiving, emphasising on what we’d rather hide and making 98% of us look shorter.
The good news is that we are no longer limited to cigarette style trousers a la Parisienne (the look I personally adore the most), but any shape imaginable, so it’s easy to find the perfect pair.
Go for higher waisted versions in order to lengthen the legs, wide and boy’ish to create a straight line and visually change the silhouette, or boot-cut without side pockets – to balance the wider hips. Be careful with tapered trousers and remember to wear heels, the fashion’s simplest trick to longer-looking pins.
Here I will be sticking with my trusted long-term friends – Patrizia Pepe wide straight black and white Gingham pair that may be a hundred years old, but is just lovely (and very much loved) and recently bought Whistles tailored black cigarettes for colder days.
What about you?
Alberta Ferretti. Cacharel, Phillip Lim, Philosophy Spring/Summer 2013
Chanel, Diane von Furstenberg, Rachel Zoe, Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2013
Paola Frani, Daks, Etro, Fendi Spring/Summer 2013
Tracey Reese, 1A Classe Alviero Martini, Tibi, Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013
Vanessa Bruno, Carven, Saint Laurent, Chloe Spring/Summer 2013
Photo source: Vogue US May 2011, elle.com
It feels like it’s only been a day or two since we saw the very first Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection, but the New York part of the global fashion extravaganza is over. While the fashion pack is moving their forces to London, I am sitting at my desk, all wrapped-up and cosy, cup of tea at arm’s reach, thinking of my favourites.
As always I was very grateful to the designers who live streamed their shows for everyone to watch. It puzzles me why there are still some who choose not to. Seeing the clothes move and absorbing the atmosphere of the show, even through the screen, can be good for both the inspiration and understanding of the collection as well as sales boost. The clothes that live are everything. The fashion “nature mortes” that become available minutes after the shows don’t always have the same effect.
What will I remember about New York fashion week the most?
Details-wise, the masculine coats, the structural dresses, the short full skirts, the injection of blue, plenty of leather and fur, the long gloves and the knee-high boots.
And then there were the collections…
Needless to say, the one I was looking forward to the most was the Oscar de la Renta show. Thankfully they streamed, so my only task was staying up past midnight in order to witness the moment in fashion history.
As soon as the first look came out it was obvious that Galliano certainly was in the building – those gathered jackets cinched at the waist with a leather belt were very him, sort of René Gruau’s inspired Couture Spring 2011 mixed with 2010 and John Galliano ready-to-wear Fall 2011, the shapes and colours of the “bubble” dresses reminded me of two of the Dior’s couture collections circa 2008, leather and capes – Dior Fall 2011 and the the lace gown looked very similar to the one Galliano designed for Dior Couture Fall 2005. Half way through the show the make-up and hair became very familiar, too.
In fact, minus the locks at the back, those heavily painted eyes, bow lips and wavy hair were very much like the look from the John Galliano Spring 2011 ready-to-wear show.
But there were also clothes that were definitely Oscar. Those were beautiful, but felt mature and very grown-up. Perhaps, not for the young and free who would be grapping the capes, timeless tuxedo-like jackets and leather that were also a part of the collection – a slightly confusing mix, at the end, but nevertheless, it’s better to be confused by beauty than the lack of it.
The point this collection showed is that Galliano and de la Renta definitely share the same aesthetics and despite age difference belong to the old school kind of designers who understand fashion deeply and have an ability to put this kind of understanding into the clothes.
At the end of the show John didn’t come out. I am sure many would want him to, but alas, it didn’t happen. Still, it was a relief to know that Galliano was there, he was given an opportunity to create again and at least a bunch of people from the industry were there to support him… I was happy for him. I was happy that he found the strength to get out there, no matter how many spiteful comments and remarks have been published all over the web. I was happy to know that this man, the unique talent, is here, alive, working… no matter what. I admit, I was scared that we might lose him, just as we did McQueen. Now I am relieved and looking forward to the future seasons…
There was another Brit that made me happy last week. Victoria Beckham created yet another simple but very elegant and perfectly executed collection where every item was a visual treat. If only I could afford her designs, I’d live in them.
The other fashion delights I will remember (and wish I could have) included…
… Calvin Klein blue pleated dress and black toned-down military-style coat that moved in such a mesmerising way. The pieces were worn by Caroline and Vanessa whom I adore, although this time the choice of models didn’t distract me from the actual clothes or influenced my love for the designs.
… J. Mendel floating gown – this picture doesn’t do any justice to it.
… Theykens’ Theory modern classics with a flirty twist and a touch of comfort proving how slouchy can be so very sensual.
